One thing that most people probably don't know about the Peace Corps is that it is about much more than "world peace and friendship". While this remains the vision of Peace Corps, the way this goal is accomplished is through cutting-edge development work. Like the rest of the development field, Peace Corps is setting its sites on SUSTAINABLE development. For the volunteer, this means lots of reporting, monitoring, and pausing at every step to make sure that their work is sustainable in their community. While the whole "sustainability" thing is the very point of Peace Corps and the reason I was attracted to this organization, it can make slow-moving work in a slow-moving country, go even slower.
So, every once in a while, you have to cut yourself some slack and do something because it is FUN. That's where Kids' Group comes in. I was lucky enough to inherit this awesome group of kids from previous volunteers who had worked with them in my site. They are a happy, intelligent, kind group of kids and I love working with them.
We meet one or two times a month. I simply put a sign up on my door a few days before and they come to my house for games, cooking, and a little bit of learning thrown in. Recently, I've been inspired to focus our activities around environmental education. This is something that I think can be really fun, but right now there really isn't space for it in my primary project.
This week, we composted!! We began by identifying organic and inorganic trash and talking about what we could do with each type of trash. Then, we moved on to learning about composting and making our very own compost with California red worms!! We cleaned up and enjoyed a well deserved snack afterwards!
It might not be the most "sustainable" or "important" aspect of my work, but spending an afternoon with these bright kids always feels like time well spent!
Sunday, September 22, 2013
Sunday, July 28, 2013
I Don't Want You to Make Me Feel Like I'm the Only Girl in the World
Rhianna might like that, but I've got news for you cat-callers - Females make up more than 50% of the population and, together, we accomplish an awful lot. We bring the next generation into the world and, in nearly all cultures, we are responsible for raising and educating our offspring. As if that's not enough responsibility, given the right opportunities, we make incredible contributions to the economy, to the sciences, and to government (just to name a few). This is what makes us human. This is what makes us goddesses.
The machismo that pervades Guatemala and many other parts of the world is about more than males thinking they are "better" than females; it is a failure to recognize the personhoods of women. This makes for interesting academic papers and ideological debates, but it also shapes every moment of a woman's life in Guatemala. (Of course "machismo" does not just exist in Guatemala, but it's all I can do to figure it out here and I don't want to simply generalize to other Latin American countries. I would even argue that it exists to some extent in all countries, including the US, but to argue that would require the longest blog post in the world.)
Women are Guatemala's largest untapped resource. Women are not expected to, or often even allowed to, contribute to Guatemala's formal economy. Until about 15 years ago, it was a law in Guatemala that a woman had to have signed consent from her husband before starting work. (Say WHATTT?) Men allowing their wives to work is still viewed as a sign of "weakness" by many people in Guatemala, especially in the more rural areas where Peace Corps Volunteers work. Without allowing and encouraging women to work and contribute to the workforce, it is going to be nearly impossible for Guatemala's economy to realize the magnitude of growth that is truly necessary in this country. On a more micro level, only one working parent is rarely enough to raise healthy, educated children in Guatemala.
Don't get me wrong, there are women in Guatemala who do work. My host mother works in the local health center. A little more than half of teachers in my schools are women. Many other women participate in a more informal way, by selling goods at the local market or out of their home. Still, this is the anomaly and there doesn't seem to be a place for women in many professions where they could make important contributions. Without any power in the Guatemalan economy or their family's economy, women have no decision-making power.
Because of this, machismo also has real consequences for the health of women in Guatemala. Women everywhere face obstacles to receiving proper health care. The common barriers to proper healthcare in many countries are are knowing the symptoms of illnesses, knowing where to go for help, and then having the resources to actually get to the help. However, health workers in Guatemala talk about another obstacle - the husbands. A woman typically has to be granted permission before seeking care for themselves or their children. Because Guatemalan women rarely have realized economic value or even recognized value in the home, there is often no rush to get them the care that they need and deserve.
It shouldn't be surprising that the lack of understanding about the value of a woman also leads to security issues. Guatemalan men who don't respect the value of a woman's individuality also do not respect their space. The first time a town drunk came up to me and draped his hand over my shoulder, I wasn't really scared. I was just angry. I wanted to yell, "I HAVE A NICE MOTHER! I KNOW ABOUT CELL MITOSIS! I READ HISTORY BOOKS FOR FUN!" I wanted to yell all of these things because his invasion of my space was a very obvious sign that he didn't know and didn't care about these things. He saw me walking along the street and noticed nothing but the shell of my body and felt that he had a right to come over and touch it. He didn't pause to think that the person inside the body may not want to be touched.
While I have had many "Ah hah!" moments about gender in Guatemala, I could spend the rest of my life here and I would never completely understand the experience of a Guatemalan woman. My light skin prevents me from accomplishing that. In the workplace, I find that my light skin can be beneficial. Once I explain that I graduated university and am here to work, I generally get the respect needed to accomplish the work that I came here to do. However, on the street my light skin can be a detriment. Most Guatemalans know white women through music videos and movies, where the women are depicted as nothing more than soft porn stars. We need to get some Eleanor Roosevelt and Hilary Clinton biopics playing down here.
The incessant cat-calling that I experience in the streets sometimes takes the form of a "chhh-chhh" sound that Guatemalans quite literally use to call cats. Sometimes it takes the form of vulgar phrases in both English and Spanish. It bothers me: it really does. It hasn't gotten easier, but I really don't want it to ever be something that rolls off my back. The problem is not my sensitivity; the problem is the lack of understanding for what women can contribute to our world and the failure to recognize that a feeling soul and a thinking mind lie within a woman's body.
Because these experiences have bothered me so much, I have spent a lot of time thinking about what I can do for the women of Guatemala. The best I can hope for is that my independence plants a seed in some young girl's mind that lets her know that her life has value and purpose. Will it work? Who knows. Is it enough? Definitely not. Machismo culture affects each women individually, but will not be changed until the collective power of our half of the population is valued and respected. Moreover, it takes more than women realizing their value; their will be no change until men also recognize it. We might be waiting a while for that.
The machismo that pervades Guatemala and many other parts of the world is about more than males thinking they are "better" than females; it is a failure to recognize the personhoods of women. This makes for interesting academic papers and ideological debates, but it also shapes every moment of a woman's life in Guatemala. (Of course "machismo" does not just exist in Guatemala, but it's all I can do to figure it out here and I don't want to simply generalize to other Latin American countries. I would even argue that it exists to some extent in all countries, including the US, but to argue that would require the longest blog post in the world.)
Women are Guatemala's largest untapped resource. Women are not expected to, or often even allowed to, contribute to Guatemala's formal economy. Until about 15 years ago, it was a law in Guatemala that a woman had to have signed consent from her husband before starting work. (Say WHATTT?) Men allowing their wives to work is still viewed as a sign of "weakness" by many people in Guatemala, especially in the more rural areas where Peace Corps Volunteers work. Without allowing and encouraging women to work and contribute to the workforce, it is going to be nearly impossible for Guatemala's economy to realize the magnitude of growth that is truly necessary in this country. On a more micro level, only one working parent is rarely enough to raise healthy, educated children in Guatemala.
Don't get me wrong, there are women in Guatemala who do work. My host mother works in the local health center. A little more than half of teachers in my schools are women. Many other women participate in a more informal way, by selling goods at the local market or out of their home. Still, this is the anomaly and there doesn't seem to be a place for women in many professions where they could make important contributions. Without any power in the Guatemalan economy or their family's economy, women have no decision-making power.
Because of this, machismo also has real consequences for the health of women in Guatemala. Women everywhere face obstacles to receiving proper health care. The common barriers to proper healthcare in many countries are are knowing the symptoms of illnesses, knowing where to go for help, and then having the resources to actually get to the help. However, health workers in Guatemala talk about another obstacle - the husbands. A woman typically has to be granted permission before seeking care for themselves or their children. Because Guatemalan women rarely have realized economic value or even recognized value in the home, there is often no rush to get them the care that they need and deserve.
It shouldn't be surprising that the lack of understanding about the value of a woman also leads to security issues. Guatemalan men who don't respect the value of a woman's individuality also do not respect their space. The first time a town drunk came up to me and draped his hand over my shoulder, I wasn't really scared. I was just angry. I wanted to yell, "I HAVE A NICE MOTHER! I KNOW ABOUT CELL MITOSIS! I READ HISTORY BOOKS FOR FUN!" I wanted to yell all of these things because his invasion of my space was a very obvious sign that he didn't know and didn't care about these things. He saw me walking along the street and noticed nothing but the shell of my body and felt that he had a right to come over and touch it. He didn't pause to think that the person inside the body may not want to be touched.
While I have had many "Ah hah!" moments about gender in Guatemala, I could spend the rest of my life here and I would never completely understand the experience of a Guatemalan woman. My light skin prevents me from accomplishing that. In the workplace, I find that my light skin can be beneficial. Once I explain that I graduated university and am here to work, I generally get the respect needed to accomplish the work that I came here to do. However, on the street my light skin can be a detriment. Most Guatemalans know white women through music videos and movies, where the women are depicted as nothing more than soft porn stars. We need to get some Eleanor Roosevelt and Hilary Clinton biopics playing down here.
The incessant cat-calling that I experience in the streets sometimes takes the form of a "chhh-chhh" sound that Guatemalans quite literally use to call cats. Sometimes it takes the form of vulgar phrases in both English and Spanish. It bothers me: it really does. It hasn't gotten easier, but I really don't want it to ever be something that rolls off my back. The problem is not my sensitivity; the problem is the lack of understanding for what women can contribute to our world and the failure to recognize that a feeling soul and a thinking mind lie within a woman's body.
Because these experiences have bothered me so much, I have spent a lot of time thinking about what I can do for the women of Guatemala. The best I can hope for is that my independence plants a seed in some young girl's mind that lets her know that her life has value and purpose. Will it work? Who knows. Is it enough? Definitely not. Machismo culture affects each women individually, but will not be changed until the collective power of our half of the population is valued and respected. Moreover, it takes more than women realizing their value; their will be no change until men also recognize it. We might be waiting a while for that.
Monday, July 1, 2013
Silliness
My blog posts tend to be about serious things going on in Guatemala and in my life, but the truth is that there are still an awful lot of "normal", silly moments in my life.
For example...
Yesterday morning, I was in a rush, like usual. (Why did I ever think that Peace Corps was going to be two years of meditating?) The result of this rushing was that I locked my keys in my room and the spare key that my host family had made didn't work. 26 hours later, I finally got back into my room.
I just wanted to let you all know that for future reference, picking a lock is a great opportunity for cultural integration. My host family and I joked about how we wish we knew robbers, because they'd be able to pick a lock. Everyone from my five-year-old host brother to my host parents and my Mam* teacher took a whack at trying to open the lock. I was freezing and my host sister lent me her favorite Angry Birds sweatshirt. I stayed at my sitemate's old house last night because her bed was still there. Finally, a carpenter came over this morning and took off the door knob. (He couldn't come yesterday because carpenter's don't work on Sundays.)
I don't think I can overstate how unhappy I was being locked out of my room, but now that I'm back in, I know that I have a great story that my Guatemalan family and I will laugh about for a long time to come.
*Mam is the indiginous Maya language that everyone in my site speaks. I am TRYING to learn it. Stay tuned to see how that goes...
For example...
Yesterday morning, I was in a rush, like usual. (Why did I ever think that Peace Corps was going to be two years of meditating?) The result of this rushing was that I locked my keys in my room and the spare key that my host family had made didn't work. 26 hours later, I finally got back into my room.
I just wanted to let you all know that for future reference, picking a lock is a great opportunity for cultural integration. My host family and I joked about how we wish we knew robbers, because they'd be able to pick a lock. Everyone from my five-year-old host brother to my host parents and my Mam* teacher took a whack at trying to open the lock. I was freezing and my host sister lent me her favorite Angry Birds sweatshirt. I stayed at my sitemate's old house last night because her bed was still there. Finally, a carpenter came over this morning and took off the door knob. (He couldn't come yesterday because carpenter's don't work on Sundays.)
I don't think I can overstate how unhappy I was being locked out of my room, but now that I'm back in, I know that I have a great story that my Guatemalan family and I will laugh about for a long time to come.
*Mam is the indiginous Maya language that everyone in my site speaks. I am TRYING to learn it. Stay tuned to see how that goes...
Sunday, June 30, 2013
The Only Gringa
My life is about to change, a lot.
Since arriving in site, more than two months ago (where does time go???), I have had two sitemates. They have helped me with everything from introducing me to their connections in town to telling me where to buy the best peanut butter. In a very short time, they have become two of the best friends I have ever had.
This week, they both left. One left and is going to be traveling for a month before coming back to Guatemala to work. The other left more unexpectedly for medical reasons and is now happily enjoying hot water that comes from the faucet in Oregon. I am going to miss them, but I am so looking forward to hearing about their adventures and I know that, thanks to the miracles of the 21st Century, I can still pick their brain for everything they know about Peace Corps and Guatemala and just life in general.
Without sitemates to eat with, chat with, and dance with, life will be quite different. I loved having sitemates to work with and hope to be getting another one in August, but until then I will enjoy my extra time by working a lot, spending more time with my host family, and establishing my own routine here (i.e. running, cooking, setting up my apartment). Most Peace Corps Volunteers around the world do not have sitemates, so I'm excited to give it a go for a few weeks!
Since arriving in site, more than two months ago (where does time go???), I have had two sitemates. They have helped me with everything from introducing me to their connections in town to telling me where to buy the best peanut butter. In a very short time, they have become two of the best friends I have ever had.
This week, they both left. One left and is going to be traveling for a month before coming back to Guatemala to work. The other left more unexpectedly for medical reasons and is now happily enjoying hot water that comes from the faucet in Oregon. I am going to miss them, but I am so looking forward to hearing about their adventures and I know that, thanks to the miracles of the 21st Century, I can still pick their brain for everything they know about Peace Corps and Guatemala and just life in general.
Without sitemates to eat with, chat with, and dance with, life will be quite different. I loved having sitemates to work with and hope to be getting another one in August, but until then I will enjoy my extra time by working a lot, spending more time with my host family, and establishing my own routine here (i.e. running, cooking, setting up my apartment). Most Peace Corps Volunteers around the world do not have sitemates, so I'm excited to give it a go for a few weeks!
School in Guatemala
School in Guatemala.
Where do I even begin?
There are so many differences between school in Guatemala and the
US. Learning exactly
how schools work here has been one of my first and most important
challenges.
I have been working with fourteen grade schools, the grades
are K-6, but some of the children are as old as 14. The smallest school has about 70 children and the largest
school has about 400. Working in
the classrooms has been way more fun and rewarding than all those boring things
I have to do with adults.
The school day in Guatemala technically goes from
8:00am-12:30pm, but usually goes more like 8:30am – 12:00pm. Snack and recess usually take up the
whole ten o’clock hour. This
leaves about 2.5 hours each day of instruction. The doors to the school are often left open, leaving stray
dogs and small children to come and go as they please.
The teachers in the school are also the janitors,
administrators, and cooks (the children receive a snack each day); as a result,
the teacher is often not even in the classroom and young students are left to
copy things from the white board as their only method of learning.
Furthermore, student: teacher ratios are about 30:1 on a
good day. There are no aides or
reading specialists. If a child
misses a lot of school or just can’t keep up, they can repeat a grade, but
there are no IEP’s – just the hope that another year will do the trick.
Teachers rarely have more than a high school education. Many people become teachers chose their
profession simply because they do not like the other career paths offered at
their high schools. This being
said, there are some really wonderful teachers in Guatemala. I think it is especially impressive
when teachers pursue a college education, given that there is no financial
incentive to do so.
There are no libraries, computer labs, gymnasiums, or
cafeterias in any of my schools. Children
do all their learning in one classroom and all of their playing on one dirt
field (and a basketball court, if they’re lucky). This set-up obviously has some serious draw-backs, but
there are some really net things that come of it, too.
Kids of all grades interact and they interact very
nicely. Recess is typically a time
where brothers and sisters check in on one another. There is typically three or four games happening on the
field at once, which appears to me to be chaos, but everyone is happy, so I
don’t ask questions.
Children each have chores to do to keep the school running
(i.e. retrieving snack, mopping classrooms, collecting trash, etc.) and they do
them without complaining. There is
typically a fair degree of chaos inside the classroom with kids moving around
and leaving as they please, but generally when the teacher does ask them to do
something, they do it. For the
most part, kids are even respectful to me, the strange white girl who is still
learning Spanish.
Teachers are required by the government to teach English, at
least once a week.. However, the
teachers don’t know English and the result is some bizarre pronunciation of
English words: for example, pronouncing the “e” on the end of “blue” –
“Blu-EEEE”.
So, this week, I am beginning a class for teachers about
teaching English. The two hour
class will combine English lessons and discussions on teaching
methodology. I am not particularly
qualified to teach either of these things. However, my 21 years of education were all about learning to
identify a problem, find a solution, and presenting that solution. Therefore, after a quite a few hours of
research I am ready to get started.
If you, too, can think critically, please go hug a teacher!
P.S. Here are some pictures of a few of the awesome kids with whom I've been working!
Friday, May 31, 2013
First month in site!!
So, I have now been living in site for ONE WHOLE MONTH! Some moments
I feel as if I have been here for months, and other moments I feel as
if it's my first day. Here's a quick run-down on some of the things
I've learned so far:
- There are dozens of types of mangoes, avocados, and bananas and I have a favorite of each. These three foods comprise the majority of my diet here in Guatemala.
- I love salsa dancing. I am still really, really bad at it, but I absolutely love it. I'm sure it won't surprise any of you that I'm not too good at following a lead.
- If I accomplish nothing else in the next two years, at least my host sisters will be getting better grades in their English class. I've been helping them out with their homework.
- I really love teaching. I completed my introductory visits to each of the 14 schools I will be working with and am now returning to the classrooms to conduct an activity where the kids draw a map of their school and mark the things that they like and don't like about it. I have found that when I am in front of a room full of kids, I really feel like my best self.
- There are things that I had always assumed I "needed", but am now doing quite fine without. For example: a gym membership, a car, new clothes. I've been working out in my room, riding public transportation, and buying my clothes at used clothes stores, and I've never been happier.
- However, I do still miss having electricity and running water 24 hours a day.
- An hour and a half commute to work isn't so bad if that commute is a beautiful hike.
- My head is quite literally in the clouds here. We're at over 8,000 feet elevation.
- Work comes in fits and starts. I'm constantly evaluating if what I'm doing is actually working, so quite frequently my plan gets flushed and I have to start all over again. Or, I get sick and stay in bed for three days.
- I prefer to work in a group. I am the only volunteer in my project at my site, but there are two other volunteers working in different groups, so I try to tag-along with them or include them in my work as frequently as possible.
- Rainy season is super awful. It rains EVERY SINGLE DAY. This makes it incredibly hard to dry your laundry on the line or basically get anything done outside. However, it is perfect weather for reading, of which I've been doing a lot.
- There are a lot of volunteers in the department of Quetzaltenango, where I am. This has really been a lifesaver. We get to relax together on the weekends, but we also get to work together (see the bullet on how I like to work in groups). Every Peace Corps post has a different feel, and since PC Guatemala is condensed into a small part of the country, we've decided to take advantage of that and work together when it's possible.
Tuesday, May 21, 2013
10 Things You Should Know About Guatemala
Guatemala is only about the size of Tennessee, but there is a lot going on here. There is ancient history dating all the way back to the Maya civilization. Now, there is a modern society with complex problems woven by corruption, malnutrition, and lack of education.
There are a lot of negative things on this list, but, hey, that's why there are Peace Corps volunteers here. However, besides my actual house with my mom and my dad, I have never felt more at home anywhere. The people are kind; the landscape is gorgeous; and there is a possibility of a very bright future for Guatemala.
Below each fact, I've put a link for an article with more information, on the off chance that you want to learn more, or you're just having a boring Tuesday night.
Another volunteer, who works in a health center, noticed that they were handing out flyers of information with a bibliography. The bibliography listed one source: "google.com". Full disclosure, I did use Google, but I've included slightly more specific web addresses, in case you actually want to find the articles.
1. A Gallup poll in 2012 ranked Guatemala as the 7th most positive country in the world.
http://www.gallup.com/poll/159254/latin-americans-positive-world.aspx
2. RĂos Montt, former leader of Guatemala, was the first former head of state to face trial for genocide in a national court, as opposed to an international court. He was found guilty this month.
http://www.newyorker.com/online/blogs/comment/2013/05/the-maya-genocide-trial.html
3. Guatemala's gruesome, 36-year-long civil war ended in 1996.
http://www.pbs.org/newshour/updates/latin_america/jan-june11/timeline_03-07.html
4. 60% of the country's population is indigenous. 73% of the indigenous population is poor, while 35% of the non-indigenous population is poor.
http://www.iwgia.org/regions/latin-america/guatemala/868-update-2011-guatemala
5. Guatemala's rate of malnourishment in children is the 6th highest in the world.
http://www.economist.com/node/14313735
6. Guatemala's rate of obesity in adults is the 10th highest in the world. How can one country be both obese and malnourished?? The answer is simple: carbohydrates. Rice, bread, tortillas, potatoes, and corn are used to ward off hunger in the most affordable manner possible.
http://laht.com/article.asp?ArticleId=351269&CategoryId=12394
7. Some Guatemalans still claim that Belize is part of Guatemala. The dispute may be settled as early as this year.
http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Belizean-Guatemalan_territorial_dispute
8. Guatemala is the world's second greatest exporter of high quality coffee, after Columbia.
http://www.avivara.org/aboutguatemala/coffeeinguatemala.html
9. 75% of the cocaine that arrives in the US passes through Guatemala and it has been estimated that 60% of the country is controlled by drug traffickers. (Don't worry, Mom, not where I'm living.)
www.ghrc-usa.org/Publications/NarcoTraficofactsheet.pdf
10. Remittences in Guatemala are equivalent to 1/10 of GDP.
https://www.cia.gov/library/publications/the-world-factbook/geos/gt.html
Talk to you soon! I can't believe I've been in my site for almost one month! Time is flying!
There are a lot of negative things on this list, but, hey, that's why there are Peace Corps volunteers here. However, besides my actual house with my mom and my dad, I have never felt more at home anywhere. The people are kind; the landscape is gorgeous; and there is a possibility of a very bright future for Guatemala.
Below each fact, I've put a link for an article with more information, on the off chance that you want to learn more, or you're just having a boring Tuesday night.
Another volunteer, who works in a health center, noticed that they were handing out flyers of information with a bibliography. The bibliography listed one source: "google.com". Full disclosure, I did use Google, but I've included slightly more specific web addresses, in case you actually want to find the articles.
1. A Gallup poll in 2012 ranked Guatemala as the 7th most positive country in the world.
http://www.gallup.com/poll/159254/latin-americans-positive-world.aspx
2. RĂos Montt, former leader of Guatemala, was the first former head of state to face trial for genocide in a national court, as opposed to an international court. He was found guilty this month.
http://www.newyorker.com/online/blogs/comment/2013/05/the-maya-genocide-trial.html
3. Guatemala's gruesome, 36-year-long civil war ended in 1996.
http://www.pbs.org/newshour/updates/latin_america/jan-june11/timeline_03-07.html
4. 60% of the country's population is indigenous. 73% of the indigenous population is poor, while 35% of the non-indigenous population is poor.
http://www.iwgia.org/regions/latin-america/guatemala/868-update-2011-guatemala
5. Guatemala's rate of malnourishment in children is the 6th highest in the world.
http://www.economist.com/node/14313735
6. Guatemala's rate of obesity in adults is the 10th highest in the world. How can one country be both obese and malnourished?? The answer is simple: carbohydrates. Rice, bread, tortillas, potatoes, and corn are used to ward off hunger in the most affordable manner possible.
http://laht.com/article.asp?ArticleId=351269&CategoryId=12394
7. Some Guatemalans still claim that Belize is part of Guatemala. The dispute may be settled as early as this year.
http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Belizean-Guatemalan_territorial_dispute
8. Guatemala is the world's second greatest exporter of high quality coffee, after Columbia.
http://www.avivara.org/aboutguatemala/coffeeinguatemala.html
9. 75% of the cocaine that arrives in the US passes through Guatemala and it has been estimated that 60% of the country is controlled by drug traffickers. (Don't worry, Mom, not where I'm living.)
www.ghrc-usa.org/Publications/NarcoTraficofactsheet.pdf
10. Remittences in Guatemala are equivalent to 1/10 of GDP.
https://www.cia.gov/library/publications/the-world-factbook/geos/gt.html
Talk to you soon! I can't believe I've been in my site for almost one month! Time is flying!
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